Monday, April 6, 2009

For better, for worse, Dimboola


Immortalised in art and literature, this Wimmera town
doggedly keeps its heart and humour whatever the weather. Writer Erin O'Dwyer and photographer Frances Mocnik report from Dimboola, in north-western Victoria, for Australian Geographic.
Photo: Frances Mocnik


THE DRY RIVERBED that borders Riverside, Denis Elliott’s “host” farm, is sandy beneath our feet. It’s littered with driftwood and mussel shells. A bilious-green waterhole supports a few die-hard European carp. A family of wood ducks parades
among exposed tree roots.
“Water is only two-thirds of a river,” says farmer-turned-tourist operator Denis. “The big trees, the banks and all the nature…that makes up the rest. And while there are still some waterholes, it’s still bringing in the birds.”
The Wimmera River is the longest landlocked river in Victoria. It rises in Mount Cole State Forest, 30 km east of Ararat, and more than 200 km downstream cuts its swathe throughDimboola, and then drains into Lake Hindmarsh, Victoria’s largest freshwater lake. Currently the lake’s dry; the river too. At Riverside, the Wimmera in full flow is 100 m wide by 13 deep.
“It’s quite an expanse of water when it’s level,” says Denis’s wife, Cheryl. “A lot of people don’t realise the river is so close [to Dimboola] if they haven’t been before. But if they come for the desert, then the river doesn’t matter.”
Everyone in Dimboola has a picture of the good times. The Wimmera flowing; kids fishing off jetties, their dogs in tow; rowing boats gliding through the morning mist. The river has been dry for four years. For the past three, the 122nd Dimboola
Regatta has been cancelled. But this is Dimboola and nobody is counting.
Read more in issue No 94 of Australian Geographic www.australiangeographic.com.au


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The Valley That Time Forgot



The Sun-Herald
February 22, 2009

On the Fleurieu Peninsula, a delicious Australian experience awaits, writes Erin O'Dwyer.

We arrive at Second Valley in the dying hours of the long weekend. Our caravan was booked for four nights but circumstances have conspired to keep us away. Dinner with friends, cups of tea with family, a spin around the wineries of the McLaren Vale.
Then, finally, we are here.
We check in - "Ah, the elusive ones!" says our friendly host upon our arrival - then busy ourselves for the beach.
Even with the long twilight enjoyed by South Australia's Fleurieu Peninsula during the summer months, the odd geological formations of Second Valley make it touch-and-go for a spot of sunshine on the sand. A round, yellow-hued headland rears to the south. To the north, another angular hillock bares its rocky grin.
One of us briefly braves the sea and then we're picking our way back to the caravan park. We've all seen enough of regional Australia to know we must eat before eight or perish.
"We close at eight but we stop cooking at 7.45pm," the woman at the kiosk had warned us earlier.



We draw straws on what it's to be - pub grub at the picturesque coastal village of Normanville (an arduous 15-minute drive away) or fish and chips here.

The kiosk seems to be doing a great trade but we wonder about the quality of the fish at a place that also serves up chiko rolls.

The desire not to drive any more wins the day and we find ourselves pleasantly surprised by the little shop's fare.

"You're packing four days into one," says the young host, delivering our order to our picnic table. "Just arrived and already down to the beach. Back for dinner, pouring the wine. And tomorrow you'll be gone by 10..."

It's true. Around us, families have spent three days adjusting to the lost-in-time flavour of Second Valley. It's a caravan park like any other - the musty smell, the laminex table, the caravan's annex in camouflage colours - but the location makes it extraordinary. An hour after we arrive, I am completely relaxed. And wishing we had arrived three days before.

Second Valley is just more than an hour's drive south of Adelaide.

It's about 40 minutes beyond the McLaren Vale wine region, past Yankalilla and a stone's throw from Cape Jervis, the gateway to Kangaroo Island.

Imagine yourself at the far end of the continent, far removed from town and country, oblivious to the goings-on of the world.

Second Valley is two places rolled into one - beachside holiday hamlet tucked behind the headland out of the wind and old-time farming region struggling to survive.

These days Second Valley is sleepy - the school's been closed for 50 years and there are no shops apart from the antique shop - yet it's charming in every way. The Federation-style cottages date back a century. There are cows on the headland and Kombis on the road. Staying at the caravan park is a simple step back in time - we're surrounded by kids playing cricket rather than the Wii.

There are 50 powered and a handful of unpowered camp sites.

If you don't fancy a caravan park, then consider the old mill, which has become a brewery and boutique accommodation.

Locals rent out rooms and call themselves B&Bs. But the caravan park is still the best bargain in town - especially if you like to fish.

At dawn and dusk, it's secret men's business at the packed jetty. The park boasts a fish cleaning area and dump point - clearly it's the real deal. That said, us women from the city do not feel out of place. We feel the special spirit of the area - perhaps the ghost of Captain William Light, who founded the settlement in 1836. Possibly the most compelling feature of Second Valley is its proximity to McLaren Vale - and it's about a third of the price when it comes to accommodation.

There's something deliciously Australian about buying an award-winning chenin blanc then breaking out our plastic beakers as we wait for our fish and chips.

As the sun sets, we move from our picnic table to our caravan annex and talk about our other travels - Germany, Ethiopia and Russia - and wonder why we didn't just stay here.

We "thank" the economic crisis for its impact on international tourism, toast Second Valley and look forward to all the other secret Australian destinations still to come.

TRIP NOTES

Getting there

Qantas flies regularly to Adelaide. See qantas.com. From Adelaide, take Main South Roadand follow the signs to Normanville and Cape Jervis.

Staying there

Second Valley Caravan Park, Park Avenue, Second Valley, South Australia. On-site vans from $45 a night (sleeps four). Extra adults $8 a night. Phone (08) 8598 4054. See secondvalleycaravanpark.com.

Leonard's Mill is a 150-year-old heritage-listed building on the Fleurieu Peninsula, 90 kilometres south of Adelaide.

The mill has been restored as a restaurant and the surrounds have been developed to include a range of accommodation, including restored stone settlers' cottages, some with spas and some self-contained. Phone (08) 8598 4122. See themillcottages.com.

Second Valley provides easy access to Kangaroo Island, Granite Island, Myponga Reservoir and the World Heritage-listed Coorong National Park.

The McLaren Vale vineyards are a 45-minute drive away.

Further information

See southaustralia.com.


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Put to the Acid Test


The Sydney Morning Herald
January 17, 2009
Photo: Kate Geraghty

Achieving a Rhodes Scholarship was almost a cakewalk compared with the challenges Natasha Simonsen has set herself. Erin O'Dwyer reports.



Natasha Simonsen is curled up in an armchair, dressed in skinny black jeans and a hot pink T-shirt. For a young woman who has spent the past year travelling around Pakistan, working for the UN and dressed in a salwar kameez - the traditional tunic-style Pakistani dress - it's a liberating feeling. Yet Simonsen feels conflicted by Sydney's clean streets and affluent largesse.

"One of the hardest things has been the decision to leave Pakistan," says the 23-year-old Rhodes scholar, who describes her work with the United Nations Children's Fund's juvenile justice program as a "jail tour" of Pakistan.

Simonsen arrived in Pakistan last January, just two weeks after Benazir Bhutto was assassinated. She spent three months as an intern with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, before she took up a paid position with UNICEF, reporting on jail conditions and working to reform child protection laws.

On her first day in the job she visited a jail in Rawalpindi. The national English-language daily The News had splashed with a story about overcrowding in jails and UNICEF wanted to see for itself. Simonsen arrived to see 120 males - aged 10 to 20 - crowded into a cell block fit for 50.

"They don't have beds, they just have raised concrete blocks," says the pretty, petite blonde. "That's where 50 of them sleep and the other 70 just squeeze in wherever they can. They are all dirty and some of them looked sick. Some had cuts on their arms they are so depressed."

It wasn't the worst jail Simonsen saw.

In Haripur, in the country's North-West Frontier Province, she visited two mentally ill boys. "They were chained up to their beds," she says. "They were sitting in their own filth and they didn't look like they had been touched for a very long time. I went home and cried and cried and cried."

Officially, 2500 children are in jail in Pakistan. The real figure is nearer 5000, including thousands of children incarcerated with their mothers. Nearly 90 per cent of inmates eventually will be acquitted because of corruption, poor prosecution and insufficient evidence. Simonsen visited about 10 jails across Pakistan.

From plane windows, she saw Himalayan landscapes with glaciers and valleys exquisite and untouched. On the ground, in the jails, conditions were horrendous. "I used to cry quite a lot," she admits. "Not there, not there ever, but when I got home. There were nights when it was hard to sleep. The faces of the kids would stick in my mind."

Simonsen lived alone in Islamabad - on the upper floor of a family home in an upmarket zone. It was a stark contrast to the lively student share-house she left in Redfern and to her parents' comfortable McMahons Point terrace. There were times when she longed for company. Instead she withdrew, confronting the images in her own head.

"There were times I felt so profoundly saddened," she says. "Not just by what we were seeing but because I went there and I was doing this job and I had all these brilliant ideals and I wanted to make such a difference. But at the end of the day I'd leave the jail and nothing would change for those kids."

She adds: "Crying is not an immediate response. It's really a response to your own helplessness. What do we do at the end of it? We write a report to the government and say don't chain up kids. But what can we really do? Not that much. That's what is more upsetting."

Amid all this, an email from a friend arrived in Simonsen's inbox. It was a story from the Herald about the work of the Acid Survivors Foundation in Pakistan. Acid attacks are on the rise in rural Pakistan, particularly in the cotton-growing Seraiki belt in southern Punjab and northern Sindh. More men are using highly caustic acid against their wives in horrific domestic violence attacks. Usually the woman has refused sex or been accused of an affair. As well, in some cases a second wife is attacked by the family of a jealous first wife.

"Acid is cheap and freely available in Pakistan," explains Simonsen. "You can buy it for less than five cents in a little Pepsi bottle at your local store. It's used as a pesticide for cotton seeds so it's something that is sitting on the shelf in a lot of homes."

The acid melts both skin and bones, leaving the victims disfigured and psychologically shattered. No one knows how many women have been victims but the foundation has treated about 170 women since it was established in early 2006 by a Frenchwoman, Valerie Khan. Simonsen looked up the foundation's address and discovered it was just around the corner from her office.

"I popped in one day after work," she says. "Valerie said, 'Oh hello', and then she presented me with this list of 100 things that needed to happen. She was like, 'Can you help?' and I was like, 'I don't know but let's give it a go'."

So grateful was Khan that she drove her young Australian visitor directly to the foundation's clinic. There, a team of nurses and a highly specialised plastic surgeon working free of charge were treating women with skin grafts and surgery to restore movement by separating the chin from the neck. Each treatment lasted three months and women were given accommodation in the foundation's shelter. One in every four patients was a child, caught in the crossfire.

Simonsen does not temper her words in describing what she saw that day.

"I've never seen anything like it," she says, her eyes welling up, still overcome with emotion. "Some women don't have a face at all. They are absolutely unrecognisable, like something out of The X-Files. Really, like glue or Glad Wrap over the face. It is devastating."

That night, she went home and was physically sick.

"It's not just that it's terrible for them but you feel actually quite repulsed. You're there talking to these women and trying to fight your own revulsion. You feel sick for them and feel sick at yourself for how you have reacted."

That same day Khan received a call about a woman who had burns to 80 per cent of her body. The foundation could not afford the treatment, so Simonsen sent an email to her family and friends. It was her birthday the next day and she wrote asking for money rather than gifts. With one email, she raised $2000. A few weeks later, she sent a thank-you note with a photo of 32-year-old Rabia. Her friends sent another $2000. Simonsen chipped in half her first pay as well.

Sitting alongside Rabia's bed in the days and weeks after the surgery, Simonsen learnt something of the young woman's story. A second wife from a remote village in Rahim Yar Khan, in Punjab, she had incurred the wrath of the first wife's family. She was attacked while she was sleeping by the brothers of the first wife. Her back, chest and face were so badly burned that the entire blackened skin had to be removed. Initial surgery lasted 10 hours and required five bottles of blood. "It just burns away at the skin and keeps burning, unless you wash it off with water," explains Simonsen. "If it's not washed off, it continues to eat away so it can get at your internal organs."

Tragically, Rabia died weeks after her second treatment, her fragile body crashing after a blood transfusion. Her death broke Simonsen's heart. "[She] was the only patient they had ever lost and I felt like she was my patient," she says. "It was really devastating. But not as devastating as it would have been had she not been able to have the treatment at all, had died somewhere back in the village with no chance at all."

The tragedy spurred Simonsen. She has since helped raise funds to buy an ambulance for the foundation and secured a $20,000 grant from a UN development program. She is also establishing legal aid for women who want to testify against their attackers.

Now back in Sydney, Simonsen continues to spread the word. Each woman's treatment, she says, costs just $750 - unaffordable for most Pakistanis.

"Some of the other work I've done has been quite frustrating," she says. "But with the Acid Survivors Foundation I just know such a little bit goes such a long way."

For more information about the Acid Survivors Foundation and the work it does go to acidsurvivorspakistan.org


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